In summer, when Parisians desert the city for the coast, the capital gains height. Its rooftops, long reserved for chimney sweeps and cats, have become the favoured playground for summer evenings, offering a perspective on Paris that the street never reveals.
Seeing Paris from the sky, without taking a plane
A successful Parisian rooftop rests on a precise balance: an unobstructed view of an iconic landmark, a well-crafted cocktail menu, and end-of-day light that turns cut stone to gold. Some offer a frontal view of the Eiffel Tower, others prefer to overlook the typical zinc rooftops of Haussmannian Paris, that grey sea punctuated by chimneys stretching as far as the eye can see.
Right Bank, the elegance of the department stores
The rooftops of the department stores on Boulevard Haussmann rank among the capital's most accessible and spectacular viewpoints, with the Dome des Invalides, the Opéra Garnier and Sacré-Cœur seemingly within reach. At Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, the bistro Balcon, helmed by chef Julien Sebbag, has taken up residence on the department store's historic rooftop, serving seasonal cuisine against this panorama. A little further on, the planted terrace of Perruche, atop Printemps de l'Homme, focuses on a Mediterranean-inspired menu. Entry is often free during the day, making it an ideal stop before continuing the evening elsewhere.
Institut du Monde Arabe, the view over Notre-Dame
On the Left Bank, the terrace of the Institut du Monde Arabe offers one of the finest panoramas over Notre-Dame and the Île Saint-Louis, in a setting designed by Jean Nouvel. The contrast between the modern façade with its metallic mashrabiya screens and the Gothic silhouette of the cathedral below creates one of the most striking images in all of Paris.
The perched bars of eastern Paris
More low-key, the rooftops of the 10th and 11th arrondissements favour a more relaxed vibe, between natural wine bars and planted terraces, without necessarily aiming for an iconic landmark backdrop. Above the BHV department store, Le Perchoir Marais unfurls its 250 square metres facing the neighbourhood's zinc rooftops, while its historic sibling, Le Perchoir Ménilmontant, remains a safe bet for a sunset over eastern Paris. Even more low-key, La Bellevilloise, perched on the heights of the 20th arrondissement, cultivates a convivial atmosphere far from the tourist bustle. This is often where Parisians themselves gather in summer, far from the tourist queues.
Where to stay to enjoy Paris's rooftops
Several hotels in the capital have their own rooftop accessible to guests, allowing the experience to continue without needing to book a table in advance. At Le Brach Paris, in the 16th arrondissement, the Villa Minuty terrace offers a 360-degree panorama over the city. Not far from the Champs-Élysées, the Toit du Raphael nestles into a hanging garden facing the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower. And near the Louvre, the Roof Paris at Hôtel Madame Rêve, set atop the former Poste du Louvre, unfolds a 180-degree view over Saint-Eustache, Beaubourg, the Panthéon and Notre-Dame. Choose an establishment in the Opéra or Marais district to easily reach the city's best elevated addresses.
When to go
July and August remain the best window: the long days allow you to enjoy the sunset from dinner time onward, and the crowds at these spots, often besieged the rest of the year, ease slightly during summer when many Parisian regulars are themselves on holiday.
Passionate about travel and urban discoveries, I create guides to help travelers organize their getaways in the most beautiful cities in Europe and elsewhere. Through City Travelers, I share itineraries, practical tips and tour ideas to take full advantage of each destination, for a weekend or a longer stay.
